Moon Young Hee’s show was set in a bright white well lit space on the edgeof the Marais in Paris.
Straight lines with some asymetrics going on, black white and play on volumes as well as a few interesting pieces with lace and beading, and organza accents in bright hues mark this collection for next Spring. The models walked slowly, nonchalantly, in derby Repetto like flats (perhaps they were Repettos but no press was handed out with the seats in oder to verify). But honestly, I think many of these pieces would look great paired with heels. Especially since there is a streak of long lines running through this collection.
I love the deep V neck line, and that black lace skirt is just gorgeous. Makeup and hair evoked a lovely and sweet Spring ideal… Hmmm, ideas for my June wedding?!? There were also a few ruffles pieces with enough volume to invite you to dive in, much like a cream pie, and it contrast a bit from much of the collection, but then if you compare it to the billowed hip sillhouette, it’s not so out of place.
Here are some of my photos of my top picks of the show.
Le concept : traduire un ancien billet et français, déjà pour pratiquer mon français à l’écrit mais aussi pour faire un geste envers mes lecteurs et lectrices francophones! N’hésitez pas à me corriger mon français.
The concept : translate an old post into French, first in order to practice my written French, but also to be a bit more welcoming to my francophone readers! Don’t hesitate to correct my French.
(Original post published the 15th of September 2010 / Billet d’origine publié le 15 septembre 2010 )
éphémère – Ce qui ne dure pas longtemps…
Au centre du quartier Châtelet à Paris, il y a une petite boutique de “trésors”… C’est comme le centre crémeux d’un beignet frais, ou le ganache au centre d’un macaron (mais par les macarons de MacDo, ceci est l’équivalent mode d’un macaron-délicat-fait-maison).
C’est aussi un lieu où il faut retourner souvent, car les choix changent d’une manière constante. Haut Les Arts Boutique des Créateurs est une boutique qui est tenue par une collective, un groupe d’artiste et créateurs. chaque semaine certains enlèvent leurs créations, certains restent un peu plus et de nouveaux arrivent. Et il y a quelque chose pour chaque style et chaque budget.
Vérifier le site pour savoir quels créateurs exposent en ce moment.
Tous les jours: 11h // 20h
1 Rue Ste Opportune,
75001 à Paris
M° Châtelet – RER Les Halles (sortie n°6 Sainte Opportune)
Souvent vous pouvez trouver :
Des slips style garçon, mais pour des filles de Pon Pon, par créatrice Leatitia Guillet.
Aussi de Pon Pon des petit porte-monnaie mignon, et des boucles d’oreilles, faits avec des fermetures éclaire.
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des chapeaux et des accessoires pour son coiff’ son revenus à la mode. La créatrice/modiste Laurence Le Clerc te couvrira la tête.
Voici quelques-unes de ses créations (photos de son siteweb photos de Davoud Ohadi)
Soudain je me trouve mal coiffée!
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Savez-vous que le charbon qui vien du bois a des éléments bénéfiques, et que son utilisation est une vieille tradition japonaise?
Lorène Hayat et Hirohiko Kamiya créent des bijoux à partir de cet élément qui vient des arbres de chêne Holm provenant de la forêt protégée dans la région de Kishu au Japon. La combustion et le traitement du bois est très particulier et doit être fait par des ouvriers très doués. Le substance qui en résulte a un structure poreux. Il absorbe de l’humidité et des odeurs ainsi que d’autres toxicités dans l’air et dans l’eau. C’est un produit naturellement anti-termite quand on le place sous les planches du sol. Et l’on croit aussi qu’il absorbe des ondes électromagnétiques provenant de nos appareils électriques, et il pourrait aussi éliminer du CO2 et contient des propriétés infra-rouge qui améliore la circulation sanguine. Trouver Charcoal Eskimeit dans la boutique ou en-ligne.
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Et le dernier mais pas le moindre : une partie du concept de la mode est la beauté et le bien-être, et Les Secrets de Loly comprend cela d’autant plus qu’elle comprend le besoin pour des produits de qualité, naturels qui sont fait en respect de la nature. (Les photos viennent de son site web où vous pouvez acheter ses produits si vous ne pouvez pas vous déplacer au magasin)/
Chantal Voisin-Simon is the 3rd generation of Simons to run their boutique on the boulevard Saint Michel, and she’s been doing so since 1958, so she’s seen a few events go down for sure!
Chantal Voisin-Simon with one of her hand-made parasols
Almost 9 years ago I purchased an umbrella there, and have always marveled at the fact that this boutique remains, while everything else around it seems to change.
Her grandfather, Mr. Simon opened up shop over 100 years ago back in 1897. He had the whole corner of the street back then and dedicated it to what we now refer to as “accessesoires de mode” but back then they had a much more delightful term : “frivolités”. But the space proved to be too large and had to be parcelled off and sales space for the “frivolités” was greatly sized down. A café was put in on the corner and there used to be a butcher where there is now a place to get eyewear.
Chantal remembers in 1968 when the student protests were happening, how the windows of the butcher shop were broken and the pyramide of canned peas served as amunition for rebellious youngsters in those famous protests.
The boutique Simon sells “créateurs” umbrellas, some from Chantal Thomass, some from Jean Paul Gaultier, but 95% of their wares come from small altelier-workshops that have small productions. Chantal likes working with these small productions for the care and detailed attention they put into their work, trying to inovate in colors and designs every year. But there are a small amount of Simon-made umbrellas that are made by the house, stunning handmade pieces that are pure luxury.
Hnad-made Simon parapluie
But not only are the umbrellas charming, the shop is also as lovely as a picture, like a giant jewel box of sorts, for umbrellas. The boutique was used as a model in fact for the movie, Les Demoiselles de Rochefort.
The fourth generation of Simons is currently preparing to take of the running of the store, Chantal informed me proudly. Her son. I wish them many generations to come of parasols, parapluies and ombrelle sales to keep us all fashionable and happy in anyweather indeed.
Parapluies Simon
56 boulevard Saint Michel
75006 Paris
Half the fun at fashion week is checking out the other people who attend fashion week! Check my post on it here. But even better than their ensemble is their footwear (at least for a shoe-crazed person like me)! Here’s my take on fashion week feet style!
She's staying at the Crillon and doesn't have far to walk, that's why she can pull these Pradas off!
I call these, the busy blogger shoes! Comfy, classic and fun!
Chanel, what else?
This boy's got nouveau-grunge style down.
She's gonna need a foot massage at the end of the day!
In the mood for spring!
She's got a little 'spring' in her step!
My-my-my-my dancin' shoes!
And ah one, two, three, four...
Taking retro to the next level.
Classic tan and tassle fancies!
I bet she goes from one fashion show to the next on her kickass Harley!
Silver (tights) and gold (shoes).
Barbara Bui, she's got a better grip on the silver and gold thing.
Pop it with red tights and voilà! You have style.
Just try hiking in those... I dare ya!
Great shoes, but even better...
... are the stockings!
Are we still matching our purse with our shoes? I can't remember.
Dangerously sexy.
There are several personalities here all battling for attention.
The boy blogger, he gets to be soooo chic and soooo comfortable, it's just not fair!
Set to music by Koji Miyakawa, the Commuun show started out with a “white is white” (production) virginal palette and moved progressively towards an almost rainbow status, with a concentration on volumes and shapes displayed by ample ruffling mostly around the bust. The collection also goes from an almost sports-wear style to a fluffy-girlie style, yet retains a seriousness with it’s bold colors and geometric lines. Mixed texture pieces seem to be a common theme for next Fall from more than one designer, as we see in the fabric striping here as well with sheer and fur.
The Commuun garments look, as always, easy and breezy to wear, as if they are as light as air, as if they are almost not there. A little too light for winter-wear perhaps, but the two designers whom I met at their after party at the Fidelity in the 10th, explained to me that they went back to their roots, to the original inspirations for this collection (which differs so much from last winter’s collection that had a more African desert theme).
The short dresses with bust ruffles and the white hooded 3/4 sleeved jacket will be sure to be coveted.
I was skeptical at first when the first few pieces came out on the the runway at Limi Feu on Wednesday March 2nd at Paris Fashion week. The floral prints on soft fabrics made me thing of pajamas, not prêt-à-porter… a little Scottish music accompanied the start of the show…and then I feared kilts…
But the mood changed and took on an air of androgynous appeal in blacks and whites with a high concentration of draping, capes, playing with volumes, asymmetrical cutting and split pieces.
And then there was one piece that I gasped : “Oh I would so wear THAT!” This one :
One of the most spectacular pieces of the show was this skirt with pleat-work and a mastering of the asymmetrical line. I love the jauntiness it gives to the gait as the model sashayed down the catwalk :
Here are couple examples of the splicing that came out nice, but I don’t know how practical that is for winter wear :
This skirt is gorgeous and adds that mermaid curve to the sillouette, but the top could do without the ruffle-poof at the mid-drift :
I greatly appreciate her subdued take on the knee-length felt-wool trench. Just how I like it. Classic.
Limi Feu Winter 2011-2012 prête-à-porter collection was shown on March 2nd 2011 in the Beaubourg neighborhood of Paris.
The nineties and the first decade of the new millennium brought us an entire spectrum of emotions that the Musée des Arts Décoratifs has decided to commemorate in an intimate look at some of the most influential designers, in the second volume of their retrospective exhibition : Histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine. Starting with Maison Martin Margiela and ending with Balençiaga with sandwiched inbetween everyone from Dries Van Noten to Alexander McQueen to John Galliano, Karl Lagerfield with Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Lanvin, Prada, Comme des Garçon, Martine Sitbon….and more.
The expo began with these words (translated by me) : The nineties was the decade of maturity. They were also radical years, completely opposing the preceding decade.” …… “The first decade of the millennium were years marked definitively by the graveness of the events that punctuated them. The euphoric start of the new century was in part stunned by world-wide tragedies. The world of fashion put on a more discreet demeanor.”
Each designer that is displayed has several pieces set in a mise-en scène with lighting, and a video of a défilé or two that helps define the artist’s true nature, or inspiration. Some of the artists reinvent themselves over and over, so it is hard to chose one particular collection, but if it can’t pin them down to one style or inspiration it can at least communicate what drives these designers to create, and display what they bring to their art.
Just some of my personal highlights :
Dries Van Noten, his SS2005 show, set to the musical piece “Boléro” by Ravel, with the models walking the length of a podium turned into very long white linen table and the spectators had glasses of wine they were drinking out of, with dozens of chandeliers hanging in a line over the table. The spectacle was so breathtaking that I forgot to look at the clothes!
photo: style.com
Lanvin
Lanvin, by Claude Montana, with stiff form holding pieces made mostly out of silk. The amount of work it must have taken to find the right composition so that the fabrics held these very striking forms…it’s a science really.Plus the video of his Automn-winter 1990-1991 and Spring-Summer 1992 where a stunning Linda Evangelista walks the podium, and the collection is full of that sheer classy elegance that Lanvin is famed for.
Photo: Guy Marineau, from museum website
Alexander McQueen’s Spring-Summer 2004 collection shown in the form of a 30 minute show that was inspired from the novel “They shoot horses don’t they” (1935) that was turned into a movie by Sydney Pollack, 1969, (which I have actually seen many years ago); a story about a dance marathon during the Great Depression, starring Jane Fonda, that tries to take a look at what desperate people will put themselves through. It’s a study in psychology more than a fashion show, and gives a hint to those emotions that simmered within this incredible artist.
Dior
Dior’s gown, from the 2004-2005 collection, by John Galliano, shows the bottomless source of over-the-top creativity of the designer for this couture house. The gown gives a whole new meaning to the shape of a woman, and although it is different and not common, it is beyond beautiful, and displays the fact that couture is art first and fashion second.
D&G
A Dolce & Gabana bodice made entirely out of gem-like “stones”. from the Autumn-winer ’91-’92 collection at the start of the nineties, that was shown to mixed Madaonna hits, and was composed of mostly whites, contrasting with what most palettes are composed of for winter wear, this blinged-out bodice shows the remnants of the 80′s that influenced fashion is such a dramatic way. (sorry for the poor photo quality, photos are not allowed at this museum, and I was taking clandestine ones with my phone).
The previous collection I mentioned, contrasts so greatly with the Victor and Rolf Autumn-winter 2001-2001 collection where forms were larger-than-life, colors were steel-grays and moody blacks, and the défilé had models with faces painted entirely in a dark soot color. This shows the mood of the start of the new century, and the somber turn fashion took almost as if it were anticipating the mourning to come after the tragedies that were about to unfold…
Photo : Guy Marineau, from the museum website
To end on a happy note, with a theme that is becoming as common in our daily lives as breakfast : recycling. E2, a line created by a couple of designers that uses vintage pieces found in flea-markets, vintage clothing stores and elsewhere, and remakes them completely or reuses the fabrics to create an entirely different piece. I love the eco-friendly aspect of re-using, and the creativity of finding a new soul for an old article of clothing.
Photo: Goran Vejvoda, photo from museum website
Exhibit until May 8, 2011
Les Arts Décoratifs – Mode et textile
107 rue de Rivoli
75001 Paris
Fashion week descended upon Paris twice in the past two weeks…huh? Yep! Mens’ fashion, and then couture… the ladies are swooning by sheer overload of lovely things to oggle…
I got to attend the Songzio mens show, on January 23rd at the Bataclan, where I saw Tim Van Steenbergen last October, and where I was able to discover this time a Korean designer who incorporates a traditional “warrior” dress style into his line while making it fit into today’s fashion, and it works surprisingly enough. His palette is rather dark in this collection (for Autumn and Winter 2011-2012) with just a few (very few) flashes of red…(a splash of blood…?). His models were quite hooded by hats or hooded sweaters and coats, keeping that martial arts fighter stealth alive. I don’t know how popular on the street those shorts that always pop up in his collections will be…perhaps they were more shorts in Korea? But his coats are gorgeous on those boys… They flow around the knees just slightly as the men strode down the catwalk, and held a moody-broody stillness around the collar.
After a little research, I noticed that his collections don’t change too drastically from one season to the next, and I actually like this kind of designer, that has a particular style and sticks to it, to develop and perfect over time. Fads, are fads… it’s better to stay true to your own vision than try to follow the vision of the mass markets…. we all know how volatile those are!
Mal Aimée a brand by Léonie Hostettler and Marius Borgeaud who met at design university in Geneva had their first Paris presentation at the recent Paris Fashion Week, on October 4th. Hosted at the luxury palace hotel Le Crillon, the label occupied a chandelier ornamented room on the ground floor. I was glad to see Jean Paul Cauvin present, and visiting the smaller lesser known brands in his search for the 21st century’s silhouette.
Marius Borgeaud and Léonie Hostettler (picture from Kevin Tachman of Vogue.com)
Mal Aimée served up a spread of garments with an emphasis on texture and lines, with color as a side dish. Sheer rayons, raw-weaved or embroidered wools, thicker silk pieces with elaborate stitching,beading and a mixture of different materials in single pieces was the texture palette. The lines wear a combination of body-lengthening shapes, a twist on the holed knees, elaborate pant cuffs, broad shoulders and coat tails for starters. Sweet pastels and faded denim along with fitted waistlines bring out a lot of femininity in this already lady-like line.
Mal Aimée, SS2011
Mal Aimée SS201
I personally loved the elaborate folds on the shoulders, the tight overlay-stitching, the silk pants and the leotard shirts. There’s a sophisticated 70′s-80′s feel to the line without pushing towards the obnoxious aspect of that era. It’s strong yet feminine.
The pair of designers worked for a couple years with Olivier Theyskens at the fashion house of Nina Ricci, before being left to fend for themselves after his departure from the label. Not without gumption the two launched their own label. This SS2011 line is the fruit of a year’s worth of constant work to create a name for themselves. They are doing it well with a sumptuous presentation at one of the most frequented spots in Paris during Fashion week. Best of luck to these two young designers and we can’t wait to see the fall-winter line!
The inspiration was as bright as the filmed images projected on the wall at the end of the show : running water.
And the collection reminded me of the 19th century painting by Ingres : La Source
La Source : 1820-1856, by Ingres
Zucca a line by Tokyo born designer Akira Onozuka was launched in 1988. Well known for his work-wear designs, the funtionality of his clothing with an emphasis on design and the simplicity in his work. All of this was present at his show at the Couvent des Cordeliers in Paris’ 6th arrondissement on Monday October 4th 2010.
The coolness of the hydro-themed line was expressed in the dark colors : charcoal blacks, sky-white, deep navy and cobalt blues. The sweetness of water is expressed in the delicate materials : sheer silks and cotons, soft flowing cotons, light knit-wear… and a water-like movement was shown in the shapes and forms : pleats, draping, runching, and ample folding that fit to and fall down the sillhouette with grace. Also seen were some layered silks, and a couple sequined pieces… of course to touch upon that shiny aspect of water!
What I like about this collection is the aparant comfort and wear-ability mixed with a lovely feminine style. The knee-length skirts, soft flexible textures and several belted yet comfortable-looking waistlines are attractive, subdued and pretty. Très japonais.
The lace edging gives kist the tiniest hint of girlish “coquetterie”, while the pleats, folds and draping sculpt the feminine form in subtle ways, and gently bring out the grace of lady-like forms.
Don’t let the japanese subtlety fool you, there is a wealth of creativity in this artist who designs a men’s line in addition to his women’s (a few men’s items were shown in this Paris show), watches, and he also designs accessories.
Manish Arora Thursday afternoon was all about sparkle, bright color and his usual flair.
From last Marcha t the Lycée Henri IV to the Salle Wagram where there was space to move around and pack in a hoard of guests, Manish put on a show indeed. Ruffles, Swarovski crystals, gold, fabulous shoes, shapes, Indian art accents, neon yellow tights and even a flashing colored top all set to live music, it was more than lively.
But bold and happy color was the star, as usual.
Manish Arora
Models came out from behind a live band playing a fascinating twist on some 70′s rock cover tunes, on a runway of light. Crystals and gold accents brought your attention to the lavish garments as the lengthy colored legs drew the eye down towards fabulous look-at-me shoes. Garments had plenty of movement, and accessories were lots and lots of deep sparkling bracelets.
Dubbed “India’s John Galliano” Manish certainly shines.
Luis Buchinho showed his Spring/Summer 2011 collection in Paris yesterday at the famed Lycée Henri IV in Just north of Paris’ Latin quarter at the top of the Mont Sainte Geneviève. The soft colors of the library setting and the terracotta tile flooring blended harmoniously with the palette chosen by Buchino for his collection. Inspired by a soft African landscape each piece plays with texture, movement and asymmetry. Organic materials (washed silks, cotton tweeds, smooth and soft leathers), that feel good on the skin flowed easily, models sashayed down the runway in feminine heels occasionally tufted with fur.
Luis Buchinho S/S2011 Paris
Especially interesting were the mélanges of fabrics used in some pieces, the use of lights and darks, and the soft folds that were hung asymmetrically and gives a freedom to the female body that traditional waist-cinching styles don’t do, yet the femininity remains intact in this very wearable collection.
Prête-à-Porter Spring/Summer 2011 fashion week opened up in Paris yesterday with a slow saunter.
Among the afternoon and evening défilés there were some interesting things to see from Spanish designer Amaya Arzuaga and Portuguese Designer best known for her most-expensive-bathing-suit-in-the-world (year 2000), Fatima Lopes.
Arzuaga explored the transformation of a caterpillar into a butterfly with geometrical cuts and very textured fabrics that are formed into not-so-prête-à-porter shapes and forms. Set in the Galerie de Minéralogie in the Jardin des Plantes, guests arrived through the rose garden just outside the entrance. Colors were sharp whites, blacks with some reds rose-petal pinks and caterpillar greens here and there. Even more impractical than the garments was the footwear; models were perched precariously on impossible to walk in platform heels that probably weighed more than the models themselves, and some were forced to strut like ostriches rather than fluttering butterflies down the runway. Nonetheless textures and shapes were fascinating and had a very tactile appeal to them.
Fatima Lopes put on a show in the Maison des Métallos in the 11th arrondissement. In a large basement style theater space she had a back-drop of stretched fabrics lit from behind, and incorporated an entire choreography to her show, which is a welcome change from the long runway walk from one end to another.
Her theme was the undulations of sand and dunes, and the clothing was made of light and airy fabrics in pastels. Each piece was wearable. Shoes were intricate gnarled heels with a pale ballerina peach color and were textured as if made from wet sand after a sprinkle of rain has fallen on it. The hair designs echoed the gnarled heels of the shoes.
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