Amaya Arzuaga – AW1213 #PFW

Guest post by Noelle Verhelst

Amaya Arzuaga

Photo : broken-cookies.com
When you picture a Paris Fashion Week show, what comes to mind?  Probably a glamorously intimidating scene from The Devil Wears Prada; in which you feel like you’re dressed like a million dollars, but then arrive and realize how terribly un-chic you are compared to the editor next to you.  Having been my first true invitation-only Paris Fashion Week show, Amaya Arzuaga’s did nothing but live up to every cinematic fantasy I had!  Dressed to the nines, I felt like Anna Wintour cutting to the front of the crowd to hand the bouncer my invitation.  Set in the Spanish embassy on George V, in which the designer said she had chosen because she “loves Spain and the architectural aspect of the building”, the opulent decor itself brought an air of exclusivity to the show.  Upon entering the embassy’s foyer, guests were greeted with glasses of wine made at the designer’s family vineyard in Spain.  The show began with luxuriously draped knitwear paired with meticulously tailored trousers that screamed chic and classic. Accented by the interior paintings and wall decorations, Arzuaga masterfully used primary reds, blues, greens, and hints of yellow in every piece.  Structured garments and clean architectural lines were themes that seamed the transition from day wear to evening wear.  The models, wearing their hair in low pony tails accompanied by dewy skin, looked sleek in floor length long sleeved cashmere dresses.  With low cut back lines the garments exuded a refined but sexy style.  Amaya Arzuaga has clearly mastered the technique of feminine waistlines and low cut arm holes that reveal just enough skin to make a woman feel fashion forward and beautiful.  Worn with every look was a pair of black patent streamline heels that picked up on the primary colors used (green platforms, red straps, and blue heels).  After seeing those it would be hard to wear anything from the collection without them, as they brought an  understated edge to the clothing!  Arzuaga ended her collection with dramatic floor length gowns crafted from plum colored cashmere that hugged the body until just above the knees where black tulle then flared into a trumpet shape. The collection left the audience counting down the days to Fall!

Paris Fashion Week – The show outside the tents

Guest post by Katie Henoch

Trends outside BAILMAIN and CHANEL Paris AW1213 shows : CHIC STREET FASHION

BAILMAN:

People attending were in more of a “working trendy” outfit, as in they were going to work but you knew they worked at Vogue.  Whereas non-attendees outside were wearing more vintage oversized clothing, taking more risks.  Grace Coddington was in all black, black flats and black jacket with no makeup on.

Fur seems to be in here, either with full jackets, or vests, or collars – same with leather.

People showed off their originality through their vintage jackets.  From boxy patterned 80s inspired ones, to a pastel Easter yellow textured jacket with heels to match, to a plaid tailored men’s jacket reminiscent of the 1940s.

There seemed to be a rocker chick trend happening, either with leather leggings, jacket, boots, or bags all in black with red lipstick.

Then you had your classic vintage girls, with skinny jeans, or boyfriend pant jeans with blouse and blazer on top and bigger accessories or necklace.

Also – florals and mix matching of patterns.

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CHANEL :

Outside of CHANEL there were two categories: people going in with invitations, and people not going in.

Of the attendee’s almost everyone with an invite in their hand was wearing some accent of Chanel on them, if not being outfitted entirely in it.

However, there was still a sense of higher fashion in the air for those who remained outside the show.  Less vintage 80′s or baggy street wear, and more of a cinched, put together, and classic style but with a bit of an edge…I mean c’mon! The point is to get noticed right!

Perhaps sometimes a little too classic! :

Fashion week is the one place were you can wear your most interesting wardrobe elements…whether it is as a statement piece, as an accent piece or how about all at once! :

Katy Perry’s appearance seemed to come out of nowhere. Within a few seconds she emerged from a moving orb of body guards, her entourage and a sew of photographers, heading swiftly towards the entrance, dressed in black with a pearl accented black hat to contrast with her blue hair.

Manish Arora ~ AW1213 #PFW

Guest post by Noelle Verhelst

Manish Arora – Street art and street wear are taken to new brights!

Having always drooled over Arora’s flawless use of highly pigmented colors and knack for turning unwearable fabrics into the most intricate and eye catching designs, I had very high hopes for his Automne Hiver 2012/13 collection.  The designer, hailing from New Delhi (originally Bombay), single-handedly put India onto the fashion map in early 2000.  With past shows debuting at London, New York, and Milan fashion weeks, Paris was lucky to have Manish again this year!  The bright colors were literally flowing from the live spray paint show, the music was pumping, and the models rocked the designs with attitude.  Manish shows are always full of excitement and a live performance each one more exciting than the last!

Live spray pain show - Manish Arora AW1213, Paris

As the clothes were heading down the runway you could just picture the likes of Katy perry and Nicki Minaj wearing every article.  Manish emphasized neon pink and deep turquoise shades intertwined with beautiful reds and purples. Everything from day dresses to evening gowns seamlessly awed the fashionable spectators.  Full skirts made from tulle, nearly bordering tutus, and holographic fabrics graced the runway as artists graffiti-painted the backsplash with the word “beautiful”.
Intricately designed cap sleeve bolero jackets were made out of small chiffon circles in turquoise and royal purple.  They were reminiscent of a rainbow fish! The models wore electric blue eyeshadow and dramatic yet utterly gorgeous gold head pieces around their chignons, that the designer made himself.  With such full shapes and delicate accents the collection was a fusion of 1920′s glamour, the disco-era metallics, and whimsical colors.
It is clear that the designer finds much inspiration from the traditional saris of his native India.  While it might take a bit of courage to wear some of Arora’s designs, he consistently delivers true works of art that feed the plates of fashion addicts all over the world.

Luis Buchinho AW1213 #PFW

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Model Kelsey Close, after the show.

The Luis Buchinho show was lovely and full of klein blues and grays, black and white with plenty of play on texture, cut and color blocking with this simple yet complex palette. Buchinho was inspired by hos memories, the streets and the ocean views, the salty air of Portugal for this breezy collection full of movement and plays on shadow and light with graphic lines and slender cuts.

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Luis Buchinho

Silk dresses, leather accents, slim pants in printed silk, knit dresses, ample coats, mini shorts… with so much technique in this collection, it was nice to have the palette focused on a limited combination of colors that really allowed the design to come out with the contrasting colors and fabric variations. The cuts are slim or ample yet don’t make the female body look like it’s been taken out of focus, they flow with the movement of the body. This is no collection for any classic yesteryear woman. Au contraire…. there are some SHORT shorts in this collections and some leggings that would make our mothers blush. I think Luis likes legs. Additionally, his design is ultra modern regardless of it’s old-city inspiration.

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Model : Kelsey Close

His beautiful prints are inspired by the cobble stone streets of Portugal, and although he likes his women sensual, he would like them to be all-terrain so they can trek around the old cities of this warm and colorful country that has so inspired his creativity.

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Claudine Ivari – Fall wear sublime AW1213

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Claudine Ivari (center) with her two sisters who model in her shows

I was thrilled to be invited to Claudine Ivari’s Fall/Winter prête-à-porter collection. The invitation itself was telling of the playful creativity of this designer. It was made like a plane ticket with the destination as “Paris Fashion Week”. LOVE it!

Got my invite for Claudine Ivari #pfw #aw1213 ! So happy! &qu... on Twitpic

I went with my friend, model Kelsey Close, who admitted to me that it was her first time seeing a show from this perspective and not as a model walking in it! What a perfect show for her first one. Not overwhelming but opulent just the same. Claudine’s shows are held in the giant and luxurious space where she also has her show room and holds her private sales. It’s a classified building, and so quintessentialy Parisian! Continue reading

Fatima Lopes, à fleur de peau #AW1213

I love the spicey yet romantic feel to Fatime Lopes design. There’s something so feminine about what she creates, yet she retains an aura of daring and boldness to the style. I am never disappointed by her shows.

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This season, she had a beating-heart-red backdrop with a cellist all dressed in red playing live music for the show mixed with an electronic creation.

Sensitivity under the skin was the theme…
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Striking cuts between prints and leather as well as cinched waistlines accentuated the female curves; skin showing through the clothing for more contrast whether is was from sliced leather or sheet tissue… Fatima Lopes wants to find out what is under the skin of her design, and let the body and the garment collaborate together to make a statement, a soft yet intense statement. Movement, change, circulation, blood flow, vibrant sensitivity…
P1130162                             Make up : exaggerated doll eyes and shocking red lips, topped by yesteryear era reminiscent hats.  P1130147

Leather and lace, floral and form-fitting reoccur throughout this collection alongside the cinched waistline for a balance between femininity and force. The Amaya Arzuaga woman is as fierce as she is fragile. P1130129
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