A New Wave of Portuguese Designers : Diego Miranda & Luis Buchinho AW2016
Article by Frank Cierpial
In fashion school we learn about the big 5 (fashion weeks). There’s New York, Paris, London, Milan, and Hong Kong. The more experience that I gain in Fashion however, the more I realize that the big 5 is really just a big myth. In Italy, they say the big 6 which includes Rome. In France, it is the big 4. In my world, it is the big six : New York, Paris, London, Milan, Lisbon. But, lucky for me not all the Portuguese designers show their collections in Lisbon, some very important ones show in the world’s historical fashion capital and the place I now call home : Paris. Portuguese designers are shaking up the whole fashion game with two experienced designers, Diego Miranda and Luis Buchinho.
Mr. Buchinho is a fabulous designer who comes back to the runway every time with something new and interesting. His techniques, his patterns, and the structures of his clothing are not just incredible, they are inspired. If I had to define his collection in three words; it would be asymmetrical, overlay, and graphic. Cut-outs and layering was abundant in this collection and it made for a full looking silhouette. Like a luscious black, white and grey (sequined) rose I found myself wondering how many more layers there were under it, what kinds of materials were used, and how did he fabricate the pieces? We also saw a lot of contrasting prints peeking through cut-out leather or wool, that looked like different versions of palm leaves. Once again, this layering of fabrics adds to the depth and complexity of the outfit. As always with Mr. Buchinho, there are always great patterns, that gave a discreet tropical touch to a winter collection. I have a particular love for all things patched and layered with depth and funky patterns. Thanks you so much Mr. Buchinho for giving us this beautiful collection.
Diego Miranda is the other of my favorite Portuguese designers who always comes through with a fantastic collection. Like Buchinho, Miranda has a very fluid style. His fabrics flow behind and around the models and look fantastic on the runway. If I had to describe this collection in three words; they would be movement, contrast, and asymmetrical (the two designers have something in common in addition to their color palette). Miranda’s collection was once again accented with asymmetry and focused on the movement of the fabrics. In We saw some great trenches in a silver grey. We also saw cinched waist lines under ample silks, as well as sheer or lace fabrics. Like Buchinho though, Miranda did include some play with prints, although in a very minimal manner : simple stripes. Towards the end of the show, he introduced a gorgeous Lisbon blue. A color that popped really well and showed off textures in the best possible way. It just added to the whole idea of contrast for a stunning effect. We also saw some over-sized sleeves, a current trend especially in Paris fashion week. The collection and the show was fantastic. Thank you Mr. Miranda.